So I've decided to stop posting to this thread until I can respond to your set of posts via a single post. You take off on the highest part of the wave, and after turning, the wave gradually loses height in most cases. [4], These hazards have killed several big-wave surfers. available to a surfer on any given wave. In fact, I lived on Makau street for 4 years (from '73-'77). Note that Angle A = 90 - B = 90 - 45.41716546 degrees = 44.58284354 degrees. But first, a couple of comments relating to your most recent posting: That's almost correct. staying just ahead of the curl. The height of a wave definitely helps with this, however, boat speed is what generates the most push. I believe we are no more than 20-25% down from the lip of the wave when we catch the wave. Most big-wave surfers are experienced and know what they are getting into when they get in the water. [37][38][39][40][41], On 11 November 2016, Paige Alms of Maui was crowned the first women's big wave surfing champion at Jaws on Maui during the Pe'ahi Women's Challenge which was part of the Women's Big Wave Tour #1 held 15 Oct 11 November 2016, at Haiku, Hawaii. The 10 commandments of the big wave surfer - SurferToday.com Take another look at: Lines 136-249 in "Part 1" in: www.rodndtube.com/surf/info/SurferSpd/SurferSpeed_vs_WaveSpd_Pt1.pdf The contour lines are essentially your "Ride Angle" (smaller angle -> increasing speed). That's very interesting to me, becauseMY "Maximum Makeable Ride Angle" or "Break Angle B" came out to about 51.34 degrees. Time of the footage 1minute and 3 seconds, which is a 600 metre ride. so if Vmax for a 25 foot wave, crest to trough, is 35 mph, this rather puts the kibosh ona certain ranter who, with his GPS-enabled buddies, were posting egregious speeds here a year or so ago. A wave peeling off at 45 degrees is a pretty decent ride, but not the fastest ride possible. Understand the foil board setup, the stance, the riding techniques, and how underwater wings work. How Does A Surfboard Work? must be able to 'create' speed very quickly. half-ass 'surfer bias' wave-height estimation. Warshaw, Matt. The wetted length of my boards is about 45 to 48 inches, and the straight part of the bottom is about 2/3rds of the total board length. The waves were 5 feet the day I timed the swells. In such shallow water, which could be about100 feet deep for that long 20-second swell that's approaching, the wave speed is becoming mostly independent of the period, only affected now by the Depth of the water. Rodgers' "Waveriding Essentials" portion of the "WaveRidersPage". I agree that it would be a good beginning. I always considered it a logarithmic curve from the trough up to at least the point where the wave goes vertical, just before breaking. I I hate the vagueness in most people's answers in the various forums that I frequent. I agonized over the question as to what I should call that speed. "mtb" which factor do you suppose might be the most important for going fast: Wave Height or Waveface Slope? Doing a bit of geometry you can work out that the swell was face at the maximum possible speed with the curl chasing (or leading, if in the The deeper the water where the waves break, the faster the Wave Speed will be in the surf zone. degrees. How To Surf Bigger Waves (For Beginners & Intermediate Surfers) That's a perfect fit! No comments. I tried to be specific and thorough in my presentation, so that other people who care about such things, but who may not It's NOT the maximum speed of the curl itself. 1. Ill tell you all about the speed and size of the waves that crash against the shores at Nazar. wave motion toward the beach is represented by theLONGER side of the When I watch big wave surfing 12 foot or more, but lets say 25-40 foot. It seems thatONLY the Breaking Wave Height has any effect on how fast you can go! Not convinced? low on the face of a wave, while direct observation reveals that the maximum The "push" is the amount of energy contained in a wave. The guy you saw at Waimea Bay on his own designed 'Guitar Pick" style skegless wood paipo in the '60s was John Waidelich. It's not that hard! One of the assumptions implicit in the model is that it is a I remember seeing a photo of one of the days when the wave was peeling all the way, in the photo I counted 17 right handers, this photo was taken from the hill at Kirra. The event raises the bar every year with $350,000 in prize money allotted across seven categories: The seven winners are given top honors and a TAG Heuer watch for another WSL big wave season.[48]. Speeds of around 80 km/h (50 mph) are common and wipeouts will see bodies skipping along the surface of the water, like skimming . Good luck trying to find a copythey're collector's items, nowworth a hundred dollarsEACH! That would be about 38.66 degrees for the Minimum Peel Angle. [2][3], In 1992, big wave surfers such as Buzzy Kerbox, Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner introduced a cross over sport called tow-in surfing. However, two surfers reportedly had near-death experiences on the water at the North Beach, and many others have undoubtedly also had close calls in these waters. I Interesting! There's more power up there, so he can pick up more speed, ending up maybe going 1.6 times as fast as the Wave Speed (GPS speed). What is an electric surfboard? - SurferToday.com However, you may have heard that What Should I Look For When Buying A Wakeboard? Contentshide 1How fast does the medium wave propagate? BIG WAVE SURFING COMPILATION 2021 Absolutely Flawless 86.7K subscribers Subscribe 773 Share 80K views 1 year ago ** BIG WAVE SURFING COMPILATION 2021 ** FACE YOUR FEARS ** ** BIGGEST WAVES. Yet we If a line was drawn between the take off point at Snapper and the For the generation of massive waves, scientists study the underwater topography of the ocean floor. The model only incorporates first order modifications to adapt empirical observations and relationships for planar surfaces to the significant spatial curvatures present in breaking waves. What IS the maximum makeable peel angle in each case above? Gigantic Wave: Justine Dupont @ Nazar, Portugal - 2019.11.13 [Surf Check out this video -- a number of guys bounce 3, 4 times before they penetrate, and that's on a slalom course (not speed skiiing). Table of Contents How Does A Surfboard Generate Speed? Wave "Push". Distance from the take off at Snapper rocks to the end of the rocky groyne at Kirrais 1.2 kilometres, in 2004 surfers were getting rides this long. Kirra. In support of this view, I call attention to the statement that you made that maximum speed is achieved by riding as high as you can on the face of a wave. So it would seem that for both practical (read: "survival") and theoretical reasons one shouldn't go the last little bit to where the slope becomes vertical. But the surfer doesn't want toSTAYthere, obviously, so using his excess speed, he turns his board back up face of the wave, going up towhere the wave is steeper, and the 'drive' of gravity is stronger, whereupon his board gainsBACK the speed he lost climbing back up the wave face, and THEN SOME. So, "Surfer Speed" isthe Resultant of two motions: Curl Speed and Wave Speed, moving at right angles to each other, where: (Surfer Speed)^2 = (Curl Speed)^2 + (Wave Speed)^2. triangle (longer that is,if the Ride Angle, or Break Angle is greater So for 10ft, Vmax = 7 x SQRT(10) = 22.13594362 MPH. Or is it a line perpendicular to to the alignment of the butIF the waves were really a true 10 ft from trough to crest, then they would break in about 12.8 feet of water,so the wave speed, Vwave (fps)= SQRT(gd) = SQRT(32.13550135 x 12.8) = 20.28138105 fps. then, only a function of wave slope steepness, or only of wave height, or a to the board via the contraction and extension of his leg muscles occurs without loss of energy. In my opinion wind swells are the fastest moving swells (which have highest frequency), so one would go faster (but have shorter rides). Where Is Jaws Surf Spot? If you call it "3", that's Local Scale, which is 3 half-meters, or 1.5 meters, or about 5 ft Hasl.The True Total Height, then, isTWICE Local Scale, or about 6 ft. That's Hb, 'Trough to Crest' height. Budget' model as means of estimating the maximum speed that can be So the end result is that the two factors are roughly equal -- and to get a better estimate, one must go to a higher order of approximation (which greatly complicates the analysis). Then, it was assumed that thevery BOTTOMof the wave is reachedwhen making the bottom turn. I used to live at 84-246 Makau St. Did you know the kid with the artificial leg, named Lucky. How to Survive a Big Wave Wipeout | Storm Surfers - YouTube where, Vcurl is in ft/sec, g = 32 + (13550 / 99999) exactly, (orabout 32.13550136, rounded). If you go low on the wave, you will go slower. For the interested reader, I've attached a MS Word file that contains an outline of a procedure to determine the steady-state speed of a hydrofoil-based board utilizing fully submerged foil(s) to illustrate the representations of the various forces involved in solving this simpler case. If I use Bob Shepard's Sunset Beach 'over-the-water' or curl speeds of 24-25 MPH, I can calculate the true height of the breaking waves he was on. Gotta go! If I have time I'll do some Monte Carlo simulation to show this. And, Sin B = Vwave /Vcurl. The best way to surfer bigger waves is to work your way up in terms of wave size. Wish we could find that footage of Owl from the 70's where the wave catchs up to him and just chews him up . than 45 degrees,orthe Peel Angleis less than45 1.5 Having the right surfboards. And, while you're there, you might also want to watch "Maalaea 05 By Buzzy Kerbox". Has Justine Dupont just broken the record for biggest wave ever surfed by a woman?A French surfer may have broken the record for riding the biggest wave ever. Don't surf waves you aren't comfortable surfing and never surf bigger waves alone. energy has been converted into potential energy). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34ma7YQer20, Howzit pinny, What we need to see ia some video of Malaaiia (spelling) on Maui if it's a speedy wave we want to look at. But because I wanted to reserve the use of "Vsurfer" todescribe the resultant motion of the surfer moving 'across'AND 'with' the wave simultaneously (GPS speed), I decided to simplify the label for the speed ofa surfboard that isJUST barelykeeping up with the curl, without being passed up by the wave, (i.e., a close-out section). peeling all the way, in the photo I counted 17 right handers, this photo If you don't know, you should try measuring your stance with a tape measure. The Physics of Surfing Science Connected: When surfers wait for the right wave, they can let other waves pass underneath them. I always believed that for a 'steady-state' condition, (surfer maintaining a high track, just ahead of the curl, not down low, IN the tube), the maximum makeable speed would be dependent ONLY on the wave height. Doing a bit of geometry you can work out that the swell was travelling at 24 kilometres per hour, which means that a surfer trimming ahead of the curl is travelling at a speed of 12 kilometres per hour on a swell travelling at 24 kilometres per hour. The waves themselves are often taller than 70 ft (21.34 m). {Note: the You take off on the highest part of the wave, and Doing a bit of geometry you can work out that the swell was You are almost certainly riding the part of the wave that is Above Sea Level, even when you're low on the wave. My formula for Maximum Surfer Speed is: Vmax,(MPH), surfer = 7 x SQRT(Hb, ft). The surfer has some degree of control over the rate of energy loss, and/or the rate of energy gain, by how he positions the board on the face of the wave, and how he trims the board for minimum drag. The only limit on Curl Speed isInfinity! The latter, in turn, depends on the peel angle and the "straight-off" steepness of the wave at the location of the rider and board. earlier posts to this thread, you were presenting your 'Total Energy be mathematically-inclined, could follow the reasoning and process. angle'? The beginners' guide to foil surfing - SurferToday.com How far out in the ocean do surfers go? Moreover, those simulations would need to be carried out not with the simple model that I described in my previous post, but rather with a more complex model (e.g. Information about different topics Founder and producer of the Top Fives show. No one has died so far at Nazar. Confirms my belief about ''true'' wave size. Well, "mtb", how do we quantify THAT? If you look at the Right Triangle that depicts these 3 motions above, then,if you use the "Peel Angle"A, (as measured away from the wave crest, then SIN A = Vwave /Vsurfer,and COS A = Vwave /Vcurl. Now, I wonder how many surfers on this forum can follow your mathematical formulas with full understanding. vexing question? the surfboard begins to diminishes as the wave slope becomes very steep.}. Larry's 'peel angle' and we have a conflict of definitions of 'peel Howzit Larry, No the video was at Malaala on Maui and I remember Sammy Hawk telling me they were going over there for that swell.There is a copy of the video out there in cyberland and I have seen it in the last few years but I can't remember where. predicting upper bound for the maximum kinetic energy it was How big could the wave have been if it was a max'ed out ride? While that's a valid (and interesting) question, that's not my primary It's the same decreasing peel angle being associated with a increasing speed, and The average paddle speed for the surfers was 2.3 mph and the average high speed while riding waves was 20.75 mph with the top recorded speed of the event clocking in at 27.96 mph. Swaylocks.com - All rights reserved. This is my 2nd attempt to post a reply to the comment by "Kokua" (posted October 5, 2010). opinion, estimating the magnitude of this increase is a more difficult question What's that about? I agree that the wave 'peeled' at a speed of 10 m/sec, assuming that by 'peeled' as used here means the motion of the point at which the curl breaks moves at a speed of 10 m/sec, or 36 km/hr (in a fixed coordinate system). Ha! So my point is. Tsunamis: Facts About Killer Waves - National Geographic However, there is a limit to this trend at very large slopes as the hydrodynamic (planing) efficiency of In other words, how far up the wave face is that optimum 48 degree slope to be found? are generally compatible with observation (see attached graphics) . Beginning in 20145, the World Surf League (WSL) has sanctioned the Big Wave World Tour (BWWT). Why do surfers run under water? - Lisa Andersen - Surfer Girl Mentor [5], One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held underwater by two or more consecutive waves. Hey Larry, this musing struck a chord with me, as I have been watching a movie called 'Modern Collective' on and off for the last few weeks and have been trying to figure something out; In one section, Dane Reynoldstakes off, bottoms turns and launches (and lands) a big backside air 360 on a shoulder-high left, in France, I believe. He is rythmically increasing his velocity as he travels at an angle across the wave. For an example, see Fig. Three times in the last 40 years in Hawaii, I have had the thrilling experience of riding in front of a near-Vertical Wave Face, where the tradewinds were stiff enough to hold the wave (and ME) up and allow me to track just below the pitching lip of the wave. These monster waves havent always been the attraction they are today but gained popularity in the 2000s. It just seems to me if anyone was ever doing 50+ mph on a surfboard, when they fell they would skip more like 8 or 9 times? input and which doesn't lead to a total energy value that continues to This post was too jumbled so I deleted it. Hydrofoils are the future of water sports. If we take his statement to be accurate, then wave surfers go up to 35 mph. and Hb = True, Total Breaking Wave Height, in feet(including the Trough). But d = BDI times Hb,so, if I use feet,d,ft = BDI x Hb,ft. From a practical point of view, it seems that ground swells at a frequency of 6 per minute must be further spaced than ones at 10/minute. Note that AngleB is the complement of A:B = 90 - A, so, B = 90 - 38.65980825 = 51.34019175 degrees. I decided to call it "Vcurl". not addressed how to arrive at an upper bound for the rate of energy Surfers only started referring to this portion of Maui's North Shore as "Jaws" after a few crazy big-wave surfers, including John Potterick, John Robertson, and John Lemus, rode it for the first time back in 1975. She makes a super-late take-off, turns high, then proceeds to cruise past the guys on their surfboards, who are trimming lower on the wave, and therefore going slower. They did not have jetski support and used only their shorts and their surfboards. Bodyboards and Paipo boards can trimWAY higher than a surfboard, and the riders thatDO go up there are maximizing their speed. Dr. Jonathan Trinastic: Surfing encompasses many physical principlesgravity, buoyancy, torque, and waves.
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